Madness Shop Manual

Zen and the Art of reverse automotive engineering

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Custom gauge install

Posted by calicab on July 4, 2008

Happy Independence Day!  Calicab wrote this great howto on fabricating a gauge cluster in a DIN slot.  Enjoy!

(edited by Mad Scientist)

I did this on a 1991 CRX but this writeup applies to any vehicle with a standard DIN slot.
these are cyberdyne volts and air/fuel ratio gauges

Shopping List:

a large piece of plexiglass( you will make mistakes) :)
a scoring tool
tape measure
sharpie marker
flat black paint
gauges
and drill and hole saw

this is plexi

plexiglass
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Posted in Shop Tips, crx | Tagged: , , , , | No Comments »

brakelight modification

Posted by calicab on February 8, 2008

so you can find decals on ebay and some other sites that will cover a light and display a msg.

i took it upon myself to put these to the test and see if they were worth the 5-15$

and way, for a CRX you need to remover your third brake light cover and remove the (2) 10mm bolts holding your brake light in. clean the glass well with rubbing alcohol, if you have ever aplied window tint, this is no different.

if you have not, this is for you,

1.clean the glass throughly.

2. with a spray mist bottle, mist the area where the tint or in this case the decal will be.

3.remove the decal all the way from any tack paper and spray the sticky side with the misting bottle

4.gently lay the sticker on the window and move it until it is in the appropriate location.

5. using a small squeegee or a reasonable application( like a credit card or license) hold the stiker in place while you squeegee all the water from in between the sticker and contact point.

6. check for air bubbles and remove the same way as with the water.

7. within 24 hours the water should dry up and your decal will stick.

8. if your of age, sit back and enjoy a refreshing drink of chosen alcohol while admiring your handyman skills. if your not of age have a soda and do the same thing.

it should look like this for a final product.

and with no brakes

i would have done a full write up with pics but i didnt have a camera until i was done.

-Bam

Posted in crx | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment »

5 Impossible Questions

Posted by Mad Scientist on January 6, 2008

I regularly get feedback on this site (though still not enough comments, come on people!) and a lot of the same questions come up all the time.  This article is meant to answer a few of the most common.

 Question #1:  What parts are the best?

Boy, is that a loaded question.  Assuming the question refers to brands, it’s a tough question.  You’ll often hear the terms “quality” and “reliability” and almost always “performance” in part reviews.  The old adage, “Choose two:  reliability, performance, and price” holds true always, but here’s a twist:  all three are relative.  Let’s take pistons as an example.  Sure, there are different types like concave or convex, but high-horsepower pistons are generally lighter than OEM (which is built for reliability).  They may last 50k miles and hand-grenade.  They’re built for racing: short bursts of high output.  Therefore, what’s great for your racecar isn’t designed for your daily driver.  In many cases, you’ll see people bash one manufacturer or another, but nobody bashes OEM.  OEM is the least likely to fail, and in some cases OEM can be an upgrade.  One example would be installing Integra brakes on your CRX.  They’re just as reliable and easy to get parts for, but they’re significantly meatier.   Picking one brand or a set of brands is silly.  Go with what suits your needs, and always do your research.

… yes, this is actually an answer to the question.  It’s just not the answer you wanted.

Question #2:  What do I do first?

Every time a bell rings, a tuner is born.  You buy a new econobox, watch Fast and the Furious, and start getting some ideas as to what you should do to your car.  Sometimes your ideas are good and effective, other times they’re just silly.  Either way, you’ve begun a long road that’s very rewarding in the long run.  My advice is to slow down.  Figure out what you want this car to become, and why.  Decide if you’re doing it for show (and who you’re showing off for), what your budget realistically is, and what you hope to get out of this hobby.

Slow down and just drive your car for a bit.  Many times, the best upgrade you can do is bringing your car up to stock.  Change out all your fluids, do a brake job, tune-up your engine, replace your plugs, get new tires, clean up the rust spots,  etc.  There are so many performance mods you can do that are just normal maintenance, it’s a wonder so many people miss it.   So, instead of that noisy fartcan exhaust, focus on the basics or you’ll just look like another wannabe who didn’t do their homework before starting on a huge project.

If you’re really looking for a modification to do, start with something you’ll be able to easily undo.  I highly recommend a retune of your ECU (in many cases ebay ecu chips are a good idea, the maps have been figured out for a long time now) ; you can gain significant amounts of horsepower, and it’s easy to undo if you’re not happy.

Question #3:  Where do I go for help?

Every active tuner community is willing to help you out in whatever ways they can, provided that you ask the right questions intelligently.  Understand that the most knowledgable people around have heard all the usual questions too many times to count, and they sure as hell aren’t going to answer you if you ask something dumb.  Put down as much information as possible about what you’re asking.  Don’t ask “What suspension stuff is the best?”, instead say something along the lines of, “I’m trying to decide what suspension components to use.  I read an article on suspension here but it went over my head.  How do spring rates work, and what should I be looking for to put on my daily driver?”

Essentially it makes little difference where you go for help, helpful people are everywhere.  I have a few links on the side of this blog to get you started, but the list is by no means conclusive.

Question #4: How fast will this be?

“Almost as fast as another sticker will make you”

Another impossible question to answer, this depends on the engine’s power, the car’s ability to handle that power, and the driver’s ability to handle the car.  Upgrading pieces of your car is unlikely to actually make it faster.  It’s mostly in your head, and as long as you’re ok with that, toss that shiny new stainless exhaust on there!  It’ll sound way faster, and of course you’ll be able to justify having “v8eatr” as your license plate after that.

Seriously, though.  If you really want to know what driving fast is all about, watch some motorcycle races. There’s no magic to going fast, it breaks down to accelerating as quickly as your car allows for as long as you can, braking as late as you can, and turning as little as you can while staying on the track.  Abrupt turns destroy your speed.  If you set your car up with those simple facts in mind, your car will be “faster”.  Please note that another 5hp is not going to make much of a difference at all.  If you do decide to go and race somewhere, please keep it on the track.  At least then if something terrible happens, it doesn’t happen to anybody else and people are prepared to pull you, kicking and screaming and on fire, from your car.

Question #5: What does CRX stand for?

Honestly, nobody seems to know for certain.

Civic Renaissance X, Civic Renaissance eXperimental, and civic racing experiment are all reasonable propositions, but I just don’t know.

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged: , | 4 Comments »

What do I upgrade on my CRX?

Posted by Mad Scientist on January 4, 2008

If you’re here, you’re a CRX enthusiast. You’ve probably changed some parts on your car, which could be anything from mud flaps to engine swaps. You’re excited to do something… anything, really. You want instant satisfaction when the job is done, and you want to be able to show it off. Most tuners start with i/h/e (intake/header/exhaust) as the first mods because they’re often the best bang for the buck, horsepower-wise. I’d like to take a moment to explain why this is an incorrect approach.

The little engine that could (and still does)

When driving a car, the engine has surprisingly little to do with the experience. The difference between driving an HF and an Si has very little to do with the engine difference, as anyone who swaps a d16a6 into an HF will confirm. Going from a 18-second quarter mile to a 16-second quarter mile is admittedly unimpressive. You feel accomplished, and believe that it’s a completely new experience. If someone who has never driven a CRX gets into the car, they’ll say that it feels peppy and handles well, but really won’t say it’s powerful. Tuning your motor is a great hobby, but the CRX isn’t known for its engine and never will be, no matter what engine you use.

If you are set on tuning your engine, i/h/e followed by a cam and a pgmfi tuning is the best financial way to create NA power (because of smog restrictions in many states, NA power is preferred).

(edit: this changes considerably with my CRX2.0 project)

Teaching an old dog old tricks

Instead, focus on improving the strengths you already have. Going from “decent handling” to “rides on rails” is a relatively cheap upgrade. It’s also the difference between a stock CRX and a race-prepped CRX. Racecar drivers focus on suspension, not engine power. Even on the drag strip, a powerful motor is nothing without a well-tuned (stiff is not necessarily tuned) suspension to back it up. Take my word for it, a d16a6 is a perfectly fine engine for a CRX, especially with light tuning.

How to enjoy the twisties

Starting from square one, you really should update to a d16a6, and get some decent tires under you. Personally, I’m a fan of BfGoodrich G-force sports. They’re inexpensive and last a decent number of miles, and the traction is excellent for the price. Depending on your tastes, 14″ to 16″ rims are the only reasonable rim diameters. Larger rims are useful because they have clearance for larger brake rotors (which aren’t always an upgrade in performance) and your tires can be lower profile (better road contact) without changing your final gear ratio. To offer my personal preference again, I use 16″ diameter by 7.5″ width rims with 205-45/16 tires.

How to survive enjoying the twisties

After you have contact with the road, you’ll want to maximize it. A full coilover suspension kit is often the best choice, but if you’re working on a budget a well matched set of springs and shocks are an excellent substitute. Do research on what is the most effective, bumpy roads won’t allow for severe lowering (over 2″ is severe). I’m a fan of H&R Sport springs and KYB AGX shocks, as they’re well-matched and inexpensive. There are several other combinations that will work wonderfully as well, so don’t just take my word for it. My choices are just examples, do research for yourself. Whatever you end up doing, don’t install springs without struts and a camber kit (when necessary). Always get your car aligned after suspension modifications, and don’t over-lower your car!

improper lowering

Exiting the twisties (and slowing yourself down)

Brakes are the next logical step, but there are a few myths that I should mention. Bigger rotors are a negligible increase in braking power. They decrease your acceleration and are more expensive to replace. Larger rotors (such as Integra ~10″ rotors for the front) simply increase heat dissipation. A much more worthwhile upgrade is stainless steel line ends, high-performance (NOT RACE) brake pads, and if you’re feeling especially adventurous, a larger master cylinder. These will increase your brake response, and make a very noticable improvement. Rear drums are perfectly fine (if not preferred) for a CRX because they’re lighter and require maintenance much less often. Disc brakes are easier to maintain but require work much more often. Check out Drilled, Slotted or Blanked? for more stopping info.

brake upgrade

Coulda, Shoulda, Woulda

Lastly, to maximize the power that your engine is putting out, a light port and polish combined with a performance clutch and an intake/header/exhaust (stay TASTEFUL, please!) will give you the satisfaction you’re looking for and give a good feeling as to what you’re doing. At this point, you’ll have a good idea as to what you want to doing for serious modifications and your options are vast. I highly suggest visiting the great community over at d-series.org for more info and suggestions. Suspension can be stiffened with bushings and strut/stabilizer bars, brakes can be upgraded with lightweight rotors and multiple-piston calipers, the engine can be upgraded with a swap, turbocharger, or ecu tuning (this is the most essential part, don’t forget it!), you can add a body kit or JDM body panels for visual appeal, or you can continue to drive your quick and efficient car around as a commuter or weekend warrior racecar.

Theories to draw from

In closing, let me point out that the most competitive races on the planet are 600cc motorcycle races. The most powerful motorcycles are seldom the winners, and the best riders depend on bikes that “feel” the best. That’s exactly where your focus should be. Always assume that you (as the driver) are the weakest link in the car’s performance, and improving your connection to the car will yield the greatest results. 700hp is useless if you can’t utilize all of it.

Posted in crx | Tagged: , | 6 Comments »

Merry Holiday

Posted by Mad Scientist on December 25, 2007

I just want to take a moment to wish anybody who reads this (and others, I guess…) a happy whatever-your-religion-allows holiday.  I guess it boils down to:

see friends and family, have good food, maybe exchange some meaningful gifts.

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged: | 1 Comment »

Update your 1st Gen CRX

Posted by Mad Scientist on November 23, 2007

The first-gen (1984-1987) CRX was a very different beast than the more common 2nd-gen (1988-1991) CRX. There were more engines to choose from, each one less stimulating than the last. With more current generations of Hondas, this isn’t a problem. It simply means that you swap in another motor and create a “hybrid” CRX. As the CRX model was refined, a new generation emerged in 1988 and nearly everything engine/drivetrain-related changed. Anyone behind that missed much of the tuner movement, and information became scarce because the more lucrative second-gen CRX was so easy to attain. There is hope for those who own a first-gen, though! You can update your whole platform to the newer generation, allowing b-series swaps, updated brake systems, and all SORTS of other goodies. Just putting in a d16a6 from a second-gen CRX Si will net you between 25%-50% more power!

You’re probably chomping at the bit to get your hands greasy, but there is quite a lot of work to be done.

Physical Fitment

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Posted in 1st gen CRX week, crx | Tagged: , , | No Comments »