Madness Shop Manual

A CRX Wannabe is anybody who wants to own a CRX but never had. A CRX has-been is just as common. These people owned a CRX and loved it, but got rid of it for any number of reasons, most commonly children. Then, despite their heartstrings being constantly tugged, they never bought another.

If you’re one of the Wannabes, you’re probably going to want some advice on what to look for. You’re in luck, because that’s what today’s article is about! Some CRXers are both Wannabe’s (don’t have a CRX) and has-been’s (DID have a CRX). I went through that phase while I was relocating to the West Coast from the East Coast, and today I solved the problem.

What should I ask?

Here are some important things to know before checking out a CRX:

• Running
  • By run, you don’t mean ‘does the engine turn on’ because that’s largely irrelevant. It’s more like an all-encompassing question regarding the street-legality, the emissions-testing, the tire-condition, title, etc of the car. The engine is a teeny bit of that equation, and it’s also the best documented (meaning easiest to fix).
• Mods
  • The more, the crappier. You do NOT want a tricked-out ride. You do NOT want it wired up for a ‘crazy sound system’. You do NOT want anything other than a nice, clean slate from which to begin your beautiful project.
• Documentation
  • How much of the history of the car is documented? It’s ALWAYS a good idea to run a CARFAX on any vehicle you’re considering.
• Love
  • Is this person sad to see the car go? Why are they selling it? Good reasons include ‘I just had a kid’ or ‘it’s too small for me’.

How much should I pay?

I just went through purchasing my second CRX, entitled ‘CRX 2.0′ for several reasons (we’ll get into them later) and I went through a lot of the usual checks. Here’s the math I do on a CRX ‘deal’ before diving in:

1. Base cost
   1. This is the cost you pay to the previous owner
2. Restore cost
   1. If repairs are necessary, the total cost to do them yourself should be tacked on here.
   2. This is not the place for modifications you plan on! Don’t discuss what you’re planning to do, everything wrong with the car should be expected to be restored.
   3. The end goal is just to get the car legal, safe, and reliable. Don’t complain about a rip in the rear cargo cover here; that’s normal wear and tear. Don’t try to screw the previous owner over, but don’t let yourself get screwed in the process! Give them a break if they give you a break.
3. Geographical adjustment
   1. I live in California, where CRX’s are obscenely common. I take a 10% adjustment off at this point, because I can always just go further down the street and buy another in just as good condition.
   2. In New England, CRX’s were very hard to find (rusted or otherwise). I would suggest that you add up to 25% as the geographical adjustment, depending on exactly where you are and how many are available.
4. Trim adjustment
   1. The DX and HF are worth roughly $2000 in mint condition*.
   2. An Si has lots of parts which make future modification much much easier. Add $500-$1000 depending on the condition.

* The reason the DX and HF are in the same category here is that the DX is more powerful in stock configuration but requires a DPFI->MPFI conversion before swapping, and an HF is painfully underpowered until you upgrade to a better motor.

The Pitfalls!

There are several problems which plague CRX’s in general, so be on the watch for these:

1. Bondo
   1. Especially on the rear wheelwells, bondo isn’t bad in and of itself, but it normally covers up lots of bad stuff. If you see bondo, be sure to inquire about it. How much rust, how long ago was the bondo added, was new metal welded in or just bondo on top.

1. Wobbly shifter
   1. When in gear, your transmission shifter should have minimal play. It should be difficult to put it in gear at rest without pressing in the clutch. If you have lots of play or can shift easily without the clutch (at rest) your synchros are likely shot (or nearly shot).
2. Valve knock
   1. If you hear a tapping noise in the engine bay, it’s probably misaligned valves. Make sure your oil is full then google ‘civic valve job’.
3. Smoking tailpipe
   1. Blue smoke is bad, white smoke is worse. If you have either, you’ll want to price in an engine gasket and rings kit, and put a week aside to rebuild the motor.
4. Ripped door-cards
   1. Happens all the time, especially when seatbelts are mounted on the doors.
5. Ripped driver’s seat
   1. Drivers get so excited about getting in, they often forget that the seats have lumbar supports. Be gentle!
6. Cracked Climate Control
   1. The CRX climate control often cracks on the heat adjuster. They’re tough to find!
7. Incorrectly lowered
   1. I’ve seen this plenty of times myself. An improperly lowered car will ruin wheel hubs, tires, and in extreme cases, exhaust and oil pans! Ask if they know what struts and what camber kit were used, in addition to what springs. Remember, springs are the least important part of this.
8. Bumped headlight housing
   1. Every CRX I’ve seen in person has one headlight pressed in. It’s not a huge problem, and is very fixable, but seems pretty common.

At the end of the day, you want to end up with a solid project. Don’t make a decision too hastily. If you find yourself showing up and inadvertently pulling out your wallet, take a deep breath. Look the car over carefully and quietly, and go grab a bite to eat. Think it over. Most sellers don’t mind putting in a little time to sell their car. Be firm and fair, and treat them like the CRX enthusaist they are. We’re all family here, even our distant relatives that we don’t see any more