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Zen and the Art of reverse automotive engineering

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5 Impossible Questions

Posted by Mad Scientist on January 6, 2008

I regularly get feedback on this site (though still not enough comments, come on people!) and a lot of the same questions come up all the time.  This article is meant to answer a few of the most common.

 Question #1:  What parts are the best?

Boy, is that a loaded question.  Assuming the question refers to brands, it’s a tough question.  You’ll often hear the terms “quality” and “reliability” and almost always “performance” in part reviews.  The old adage, “Choose two:  reliability, performance, and price” holds true always, but here’s a twist:  all three are relative.  Let’s take pistons as an example.  Sure, there are different types like concave or convex, but high-horsepower pistons are generally lighter than OEM (which is built for reliability).  They may last 50k miles and hand-grenade.  They’re built for racing: short bursts of high output.  Therefore, what’s great for your racecar isn’t designed for your daily driver.  In many cases, you’ll see people bash one manufacturer or another, but nobody bashes OEM.  OEM is the least likely to fail, and in some cases OEM can be an upgrade.  One example would be installing Integra brakes on your CRX.  They’re just as reliable and easy to get parts for, but they’re significantly meatier.   Picking one brand or a set of brands is silly.  Go with what suits your needs, and always do your research.

… yes, this is actually an answer to the question.  It’s just not the answer you wanted.

Question #2:  What do I do first?

Every time a bell rings, a tuner is born.  You buy a new econobox, watch Fast and the Furious, and start getting some ideas as to what you should do to your car.  Sometimes your ideas are good and effective, other times they’re just silly.  Either way, you’ve begun a long road that’s very rewarding in the long run.  My advice is to slow down.  Figure out what you want this car to become, and why.  Decide if you’re doing it for show (and who you’re showing off for), what your budget realistically is, and what you hope to get out of this hobby.

Slow down and just drive your car for a bit.  Many times, the best upgrade you can do is bringing your car up to stock.  Change out all your fluids, do a brake job, tune-up your engine, replace your plugs, get new tires, clean up the rust spots,  etc.  There are so many performance mods you can do that are just normal maintenance, it’s a wonder so many people miss it.   So, instead of that noisy fartcan exhaust, focus on the basics or you’ll just look like another wannabe who didn’t do their homework before starting on a huge project.

If you’re really looking for a modification to do, start with something you’ll be able to easily undo.  I highly recommend a retune of your ECU (in many cases ebay ecu chips are a good idea, the maps have been figured out for a long time now) ; you can gain significant amounts of horsepower, and it’s easy to undo if you’re not happy.

Question #3:  Where do I go for help?

Every active tuner community is willing to help you out in whatever ways they can, provided that you ask the right questions intelligently.  Understand that the most knowledgable people around have heard all the usual questions too many times to count, and they sure as hell aren’t going to answer you if you ask something dumb.  Put down as much information as possible about what you’re asking.  Don’t ask “What suspension stuff is the best?”, instead say something along the lines of, “I’m trying to decide what suspension components to use.  I read an article on suspension here but it went over my head.  How do spring rates work, and what should I be looking for to put on my daily driver?”

Essentially it makes little difference where you go for help, helpful people are everywhere.  I have a few links on the side of this blog to get you started, but the list is by no means conclusive.

Question #4: How fast will this be?

“Almost as fast as another sticker will make you”

Another impossible question to answer, this depends on the engine’s power, the car’s ability to handle that power, and the driver’s ability to handle the car.  Upgrading pieces of your car is unlikely to actually make it faster.  It’s mostly in your head, and as long as you’re ok with that, toss that shiny new stainless exhaust on there!  It’ll sound way faster, and of course you’ll be able to justify having “v8eatr” as your license plate after that.

Seriously, though.  If you really want to know what driving fast is all about, watch some motorcycle races. There’s no magic to going fast, it breaks down to accelerating as quickly as your car allows for as long as you can, braking as late as you can, and turning as little as you can while staying on the track.  Abrupt turns destroy your speed.  If you set your car up with those simple facts in mind, your car will be “faster”.  Please note that another 5hp is not going to make much of a difference at all.  If you do decide to go and race somewhere, please keep it on the track.  At least then if something terrible happens, it doesn’t happen to anybody else and people are prepared to pull you, kicking and screaming and on fire, from your car.

Question #5: What does CRX stand for?

Honestly, nobody seems to know for certain.

Civic Renaissance X, Civic Renaissance eXperimental, and civic racing experiment are all reasonable propositions, but I just don’t know.

4 Responses to “5 Impossible Questions”

  1. my3r5 Says:

    I am posing this question not only as a question for my reference, but also as an example of the proper way to pose a question.

    I have a question for you, (that concerns the ecu) just because I had done some reading on you Project CRX page and came across something that caught my eye.
    I’ll give you a basic overview of what I have and what I’m wanting to gain. My car has a rebuilt B18A1 that was built by a freind and I am currently swapping it into a different CRX as a winter project.
    He had put replacement oem pistons, rods, rings, crank in the lower block and in the upper block he had an aggressive port and polish job done on the head along with valve angling, valve replacement, dual valve springs, STR cams, intake manifold, and headers.
    He had at one point done a OBD0 - OBD1 swap and was running a tuned Hondata on it (not sure of which model). Upon selling the vehicle to me had put the stock OBD0 components back on the vehicle. I am currently running a stock PR4 OBD0 ecu and components. I am wanting to get this ecu chipped, but have had some discrepancies when asking questions/searching for answers. My question for you is…Would an ebay chip/chipped OBD0 ecu be sufficient for my engine?
    Again, I would not have singled you out had I not noticed on you web page that you said for the most part these chips are sufficient. I have been told that they are not, due to the fact that my engine has certain mods on it (the ecu would have to be designed specifically for my car). I am just wanting to gain a higher redline (my friend had said that with his tuned Hondata he was revving around 9000rpms), and delete my top speed limiter. ECU tuning/chipping is a relatively new topic for me and help on this matter would be highly appreciated.
    I am sorry this was long, but I felt it necessary to inform on my engine mods before asking this question. Thanks for taking you time to read this/help me with this dilemma.

  2. Jesse Says:

    I’m glad you asked, and thanks for stopping by! If your engine is built enough to redline at 9k (which is very very rare) and you don’t need to do too much crazy stuff with your fuel mapping, staying OBD0 and using PGMFI with ROMS is the best way to go.

    Hondata is one way to go, but I personally prefer pgmfi by a wide margin. Many of the friendly people over at pgmfi are willing to burn a ROM to your current ecu cheaply. Here’s where you want to begin… do LOTS and LOTS of reading before posting, trust me on this one.
    http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewforum.php?f=40

    If possible, you’ll want to get ahold of a pm6 ecu (2nd gen CRX Si) instead of the PR4. The PR4 isn’t as popular a platform, and as such, isn’t as well tuned. The pm6 isn’t anything crazy, but it’s common and versatile.

    This setup can take you to some pretty crazy places, and you can have fancy things like launch control added in. If you wanted to get really crazy with it (which I’ve always planned to) you can get an Asus EEE and a ROM emulator, and be able to change your tuning on the fly (any computer will work, the EEE just happens to be a perfect platform, being so small and cheap).

    I’m sorry this reply was so long and so non-conclusive. I realize that I’m just pointing you in the direction of people more learned than we are, but that’s just how it is.

    As far as the ebay ECU, it should be just fine. Most of them are hardcore PGMFI members who sell their spare ecu’s that they chipped just for the experience. Personally, I’d prefer to go directly to the source and have some certainty that the person who chipped an ECU knew what they were doing (not only with tuning, but also with a soldering iron). Be that as it may, I know plenty of people who’ve been very satisfied with ebay’s PGMFI ecus. Don’t get a piggyback, though. They just won’t satisfy.

  3. my3r5 Says:

    Thanks for your answer, and pointing me in the right direction. This has indeed (and will continue to be) a great learning experience.

  4. Jesse Says:

    Keep it up. If all goes well, I’ll eventually be asking you questions!

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